The Brooch Is Back — and It Has a Lot to Say
Lions and crabs, kittens and rosettes: the most personal piece of jewellery has become the defining accent of autumn/winter 2026.
For years the brooch was the piece of jewellery we inherited rather than bought. Not any more. Across the autumn/winter 2026 collections, brooches appeared on lapels, collars, knits, scarves and bags — and they were chosen with real wit and meaning.
Symbols on the lapel
British Vogue described one of the season's most poignant moments: at Giorgio Armani's autumn/winter 2026 show, the opening look — a cashmere flannel suit — wore a red stone brooch in the shape of a lion's head, nodding to the star sign of Silvana Armani, who has taken on the house after her uncle's death in 2025. The look that followed carried a crab, honouring Mr Armani's own sign.
That sense of symbolism ran through the season. Ralph Lauren pinned brooches to countrified tweeds and pashminas; Conner Ives placed them on the lapels of decadent tuxedos. Tory Burch chose fish. Chopova Lowena went joyfully kitsch with kittens, squirrels and butterflies. In London, Simone Rocha offered dressage-inspired ribbon rosettes, while Oscar Ouyang made star-shaped brooches that looked like the bows on a gift.
Florals everywhere
If there was one crowd-pleasing motif, it was the flower. Vogue counted blooming floral brooches at Chanel, Loro Piana, Khaite, Dior and Kallmeyer. Elle added Etro, Giorgio Armani, Ralph Lauren and Prabal Gurung to the list of houses showing vintage-inspired brooches on the lapel.
How to wear a brooch now
- Start on the lapel. It is the classic placement for a reason — a single brooch on a blazer or coat is instantly polished.
- Then go off-script. Harper's Bazaar UK suggested pinning brooches to bags, scarves, hats and ties. Try one at the neck of a knit, on a belt loop, or holding a wrap closed.
- Pin in pairs. Chanel's pre-fall 2026 collection showed two brooches placed in parallel on a shirt collar — an elegant, almost uniform-like effect.
- Build a collection. The most personal approach is a cluster of brooches, each one meaning something to you, worn together.
The takeaway
The brooch is jewellery's great storyteller. Raid a family jewellery box, hunt through vintage shops or invest in a single beautiful piece — then wear it somewhere unexpected.
